domingo, 27 de febrero de 2011

"Cosmic Love" multi-pitch new photos

New photos of "Cosmic Love" first multi-pitch climbing route in Panama
Click photos to enlarge

Climbers Uriah (left) and Janneth standing at the bottom of the new route "Cosmic Love"

Climber Melissa top roping first pitch of the route

Climbers Reeve (left) and Ryan attempting first pitch

Climber Reeve descending from the first set of anchors

Climber Cesar Melendez at the first move of the route

Climber Cesar Melendez climbing first overhang section of "Cosmic" pitch

At the second roof section

Turn at the overhang roof section

View from the first set of anchors

Climbers at the top of the mountain

Zoomed view of "Gunko" from the top - West face of Piedra de Lino

Zoomed view of "Mana" from the top - West face of Piedra de Lino

Zoomed view of "Paradiso" from the top - North West face of Piedra de Lino

Zoomed view of "Legacy" from the top - North West face of Piedra de Lino

miércoles, 9 de febrero de 2011

"Cosmic Love" first muti-pitch climbing route in Panama

"Cosmic Love"
First multi-pitch climbing route in Panama
Since 2004, (after Canadian climber Gary Henning visited Boquete and developed the first sport climbing areas in the country), a whole new world of opportunities emerged to continue the development of routes in Panama. With great efforts and the support of climbers visiting the country every year, local climbers have completed a total of five beautiful climbing crags: Gunko, Mana, Paradiso, Legacy and Pandora. All of them, volcanic rock formations in between 20 and 30 meters height and summarize a total of 30 hi-quality short sport routes. (levels 5.6 up to 5.13a YDS)

Almost 8 years after Henning's first visit to Panama, the rock climbing scene continues to surprise everyone with amazing moments on the pages of our climbing history. Memorable climbs like the first ascent of "The Matrix"5.10a by climber Marcos Gonzalez, the first ascent of "Jump up to the sky"5.12a by climber Christian Schiefer, the first ascent of "Buns of Steel" 5.12d/5.13a by climber Scott Grayson, free solo of "La frontera" 5.6, by climber Janeth Martinez, second ascent of "Equilibrium" 5.11a by climber Amarildo Miranda, the first ascent of "Stairway to Heaven"5.12b by climber Cesar Melendez, third ascent of "El Camino Negro" 5.9 by climber Melissa Lorena Miranda and many more...all proof of the incredible potential of the Panamanian climbing scene.

Now is 2011 and another step in the progression of the sport have finally emerged: the multi-pitch climbing. (See definition of multi-pitch at the bottom of this entry). 

After months of research, Panamanian climber Cesar Melendez found a rock formation suitable for a multi-pitch climbing project. 45 minutes of hiking takes the climber to the top of a mountain known as "Piedra de Lino" (600 meters height aprox) this beautiful mountain covered by coffee plantations reveals an incredible rock wall on the East face. From the top the spectator can see Boquete downtown, David city and even Pacific Ocean. At this point you are 1590 meters above sea level.

Cesar rappelled down the East face of the wall and surprised by the formation started working on the best possible route to climb the wall. After 2 days of work and lots of bolts to equip the entire line, the route was finally completed. Cesar named the 60 meters line "Cosmic Love", "Cosmic" (first pitch) and "Love" (second pitch). The route difficulty grade is still under consideration. There are two anchor systems, one in the middle of the wall and another one at the top. Two pitches to climb (30 meters approximately each). This is officially the first ever existing multi-pitch climbing route in Panama. 

"Cosmic Love" is a route featuring amazing movements and concentration. The first pitch starts with a difficult move followed by a section of 2 small roof. There is a fun climbing sections after that. Second pitch continues with a balancing slope and easy climbing, there is a big roof at the end.

This route is amazing and take the climber to the very summit of the mountain.

The exposure and the view at the top is incredible, Cosmic Love is definitely a very unique journey. Sense of ultimate freedom intensify your interior peace, it feels like you are walking in the sky.

Soon will be posting photos and more information about "Cosmic Love".

Multi-pitch climbing is the ascent of climbing routes with one or more stops at a belay station. Each section of actual climbing between stops at the belay stations is called a pitch. The leader ascends the pitch, placing gear and stopping to anchor themselves to the belay station. The general purpose of these stops is to allow the second to ascend to the point of the lead climber while collecting the protective gear from the route in the course of the lead climber's ascent. At the belay station, the protective gear is collected, possibly exchanged to a new leader, and the leader of the next pitch ascends the route.