lunes, 7 de diciembre de 2015

DWS routesStart "Panic Room" and "Inertia"

DWS routes "Panic Room" and "Inertia"

"Panic Room" is by far my hardest DWS route at Cangilones de Gualaca until today. Here, at the beginning of the crux I use a single finger pocket (right hand) and a 3 fingers gaston (left hand) starting a traverse followed by few small holds trough an overhang roof with very small/wet steps for feet. 

Crux sequence continues at this point by matching both hands at a very precarious handhold. Because of the angle of the rock and lack of footholds here I have been forced to solve this section by pulling my body with both hand and immediately reach for a small 3 finger-pinch with my right hand. This movement requires a lot of strength and it is still very complicated for me to perform. Keep working on it.   

This photo illustrates ¨Inertia¨ a beautiful dynamic DWS route. This route took me over 100 tries until perfecting a right to left sideways jump that starts at a 2 finger handhold (left hand), gaston (right hand) and two very small footholds. One of the major difficulties I found at this route (besides keeping motivation for a period longer than 10 months) is learning the precise sequences at the moment of catching (1) grabbing a small corner with left hand that goes in the same direction of the jump  (2) stopping the energy of the jump by using the right hand on a slope hold (3) twisting the body at perfect timing to reduce the inertia of the sideways jump and (4) return the energy of the swing to catch an upper handhold. Masterpiece route. This is definitely one of my proudest and favorites routes at Cangilones de Gualaca.